Use Hardwood Flooring

Archive for the ‘DIY repairs & refinishing’ Category

Just as there are various types of hardwood flooring there are various types of finishes. The most common finish is urethanes, as these are durable, water resistant, and possible the biggest reason of all, they require a minimal amount of maintenance. All urethane finishes remain on the surface of the wood, forming a protective coating.

The several types of finishes available are as follows:

Conversion Varnish: This durable finish dries clear, or may have a very slight amber color to it. These finishes should only be applied by a professional. In addition, conversion varnish finishes have a very strong odor to them.

Moisture-cured Urethane: This is a solvent-based polyurethane, which is more durable as well as moisture resistant than other types of finishes. It is available in both non-yellowing and ambering (yellowing) formulas. Moisture-cured urethanes should also be applied by a professional and they too have a strong odor to them.

Oil-modified Urethane: These are very simple to apply, are solvent-based polyurethanes that dry in approximately 8 hours. These finishes will amber (yellow).

Penetrating Stains and Waxes: These finishes soak into the grain of the wood, then hardens as they dry forming a protective seal. To maintain this type of finish you will have to use a solvent-based wax and buffing past or cleaning liquid that has been specially formulated for wax-finishes wood floors. You will also need to apply an additional thin application of the wax. NEVER use a WATER-BASED wax on these finishes as it will ruin the finish.

Water-based Urethanes: These are simple to apply, dry in approximately 2 to 3 hours and are available in clear non-ambering finishes. Water-based urethanes do have a mild odor to them.

The carpet in our home was over 15 years old, and looked it. When pricing carpet, we soon found ourselves comparing it to the price of engineered flooring; believe it or not, the engineered flooring was less expensive. Why? With carpet, you have to install a good quality pad, and unless you are experienced in installing carpet, it can be a nightmare. In addition, the price of having the carpet installed for us almost doubled the price of the carpet. For this reason, my husband and I decided to go with the engineered flooring. If we can do it, so can you.

The following are some brief tips to help you do it yourself.

If your local home shopping center offers weekend classes on installing engineered flooring, consider taking the class. Seeing it done does clarify many parts of the instructions. In addition, you can learn firsthand how to install your flooring and most importantly have the opportunity to ask an installation expert any questions you may have. You will also become familiar with the tools and supplies you will need to install your flooring. Another added benefit of the class is that you may meet a friend, who may be willing to help you with your installation.

Before you purchase any of your flooring, you must measure the room where you will be installing the flooring to have your correct square footage. This will also be needed in purchasing your vapor barrier and pad, as well as any sealant and nails if needed. You will need to purchase specific tools and supplies to install your engineered flooring depending on if you purchase nail-down, glue-down, and floating flooring. However, every time requires that you install a plastic vapor barrier. You will also need a saw, and padding. If your flooring is the glue-down type then you will also require tightening straps and tapping block.

Once you have purchased all of your supplies and flooring, your next step is to move every thing out of the room were you are going to install your flooring. This also means pulling up the carpet. You want to next, clean and repair your subfloor. With engineered flooring, you do not have to worry about defects in your sub-flooring showing through to your engineered flooring. One you have everything out of that room, you want to install your vapor barrier and your padding. Then you want to place the open boxes of your engineered flooring in the room so that the boards can acclimate for a minimal of 72 hours.

Before you begin laying any planks, you have to decide in the direction that you want the planks laid. Once you have nailed or glued that first plank down, is too late to change your mind. A good rule of thumb, when installing engineered flooring in a narrow or long room, place the boards lengthwise, however, if you are installing them in a room with a large window or French doors, then lay the boards feeding towards the window or French doors.

Another tip, do not rush, take your time, and take several breaks. In addition, before you get started. READ and UNDERSTAND your manufacturers instructions. If you do not understand what the manufacturer wants you to do, then dont be afraid in calling where you purchased your flooring from and asking for help.

Once you have laid your starter boards, you will be amazed at how smoothly the process will be. Then once you have finished, all you have to do is sit back and enjoy your new engineered flooring. Oh, and move all the furniture back into the room.

If you are considering installing laminate flooring, you first need to know that for certain brands, such as Pergo, you must first calculate precisely how much flooring, and you will need to purchase. The best method to do this is to by using a room size calculator. You will need to keep in mind to purchase extra pieces to compensate for any unforeseen problems. It is always best to have some left over incase you need to replace a board to two in the coming years, than not have any and therefore will not be able to repair any boards if some unforeseen accident occurs. After you have calculated the area figured, you would then need to purchase the flooring, as well as any other items that you will need to install the flooring. The following is a list of the essential items that you will need. This however may not be a complete list as suggested by the manufacture of your particular flooring. Please follow the list your manufacture has suggested:

Installation Kit- this should include spacers, and a tapping block Moisture resistant underlayment Installation straps, these are not required by many manufactures, however they do make the installation process easier. Manufacturers recommended glue, i.e. Pergo glue Pull bar Floor clamps, (these are also not required by many manufacturers, however they will strengthen your finished flooring. Manufacturers recommended sealant-this is to secure the gaps between the floor and ensure against moisture seeping between the boards. Manufacturers recommended putty to repair any damage that you may cause while installing your flooring.

They were intended for indoor use only. Do not install these floorings where they will be exposed to the elements, as they will soon be damaged. Laminate flooring also must be installed as a floating system, which means that there must be a 1/4″ space around the perimeter to accommodate changes in humidity and temperature. These changes will cause the wood to expansion and contraction. In addition, the laminate flooring cannot be attached to the subfloor; it must rest on top of the existing floor. Your laminate flooring should also be installed over the manufactures recommended underlayment, which is recommended for your particular type of flooring such as wood or concrete.

Once your materials arrive, they must acclimate to the room or area where they will be installed; therefore, they must be left in the opened cartons for approximately 72. Once you have finished installing your new laminate flooring, you will truly enjoy the beauty of your new floors.

Everyone wants their hardwood floors to look as good as the day they were installed. However, accidents do happen. If the repairs you need to make are minor, and if you are a capable do-it-yourselfer, then you can save money and do the repairs yourself.

For planks or strips that are too damaged to be repaired by sanding and filling, you can replace that particular strip or plank. Many flooring systems use a tongue-and-groove design, which makes replacing them possible. However, the task will be a challenge.

Locate all nails in the damaged board, then using a nail set and hammer, drive the nails through the board. Drill holes along the damaged board using 1/2- or 3/8-inch-diameter spade bit and power drill. Next, carefully split the damaged board by using a wood chisel to make removal easier. Carefully pry out the damaged board. If you have several damaged boards, remove these in the same way. However, cut them so the end joints are staggered. Use a nail puller and remove any exposed nails or use a nail set and drive them out of the way. Measure and cut the replacement strip or strips the same length as the ones youve removed. If needed, cut off the bottom side of the groove on the board. This will enable you to install the board between two others. First, insert the tongue side then lower the groove side into place. If the board does not fit, then recut the board. If the board fits, then remove the replacement strip and apply construction adhesive to the backside of the strip, then reinstall the strip again and using a scrap piece of wood, carefully tap it into place. Nail the board in place and using a nail set, drive the heads just below the surface.

If you have to finish the new board, then matching the finish of the boards youve replaced with your existing flooring may be difficult.

If your hardwood boards have buckled, due to moisture, then you must repair them quickly to avoid further damage to your flooring.

To repair a buckled floorboard without removing it, you need to be able to access the floor from below, if you cannot, then you will need to replace the board.

Place weight on the buckled board. Cinder or cement blocks work very well. Beneath the buckled board, screw in a 1-1/4 screw into the buckled flooring. You want the screw to penetrate into the floor only halfway to prevent it from coming up through the surface. Driving the screw up through the subfloor and into the warp flooring will pull the warp flooring down removing the buckled area.

Stains can be the toughest things to repair with many times the only way to repair the stain is by refinishing the entire floor. Before you make plans to completely refinish your entire floor for a stain the size of a dime, try to remove the stain first.

The following steps can help you to remove a stain:

Always wear protective eye protection, and acid-resistant rubber protective gloves. Carefully sand off the old finish. Following the directions on the package mix oxalic acid crystals in water. Use a clean white cloth to prevent transferring any dye from the cloth to your floor, soak the white cloth in the oxalic acid solution, then press the cloth to the stain and allow it to sit for approximately 1 hour. Check the area and see if the stain has been bleached away. If it has not, then repeat the process. It may be necessary to repeat the process several times, but the stain will eventually be bleached away. Once you have removed the stain, it is important to neutralize the acid area with household vinegar, ensuring that you completely dry the area. Lightly apply a matching oil-based stain to the bleached area. It may be necessary to apply several coats to match the floor. Do not apply the stain heavy to attempt to match your floor in one coat. If you get the stain too dark, immediately wipe the area with a damp cloth and mineral spirits. Once you achieve the desired color, allow the area to dry overnight. Once the stain has dried, apply the finishing topcoat and blend into the adjacent areas.

You will not achieve a Perfect match; however, it should close enough so that it is not noticeable. If, however you dont like it or if the match doesnt suit you, then refinish the floor.

Tiny scratches can usually be cover with color putty sticks. However, many people feel that this is not repairing the problem, and yes, it is. However, color putty sticks are the easiest way to repair scratches. You want to first clean the mar, or scratched area then rub the putty stick over the damaged spot, working the color into the scratch. Allow the color to dry before wiping it with a clean cloth. Many times to repair a simple nick or scratch require getting color into these areas to hide the imperfection.

However, if the nick or scratch is actually a dig or gouge, then you may have to completely replace the entire board as using wood filler and stain may be too noticeable. If your flooring is worn or if there are numerous areas that need repairing, then you may want to refinish your entire floor instead of spending time on each and every blemish.

This article was written with the help of professional refinishers. Last summer my husband and I tackled refinishing the floors in my parents home. The house was built in the early 1800s on the coast of North Carolina, and every inch of its 1600 square footage of flooring is solid hardwood. However, what type of hardwood it was we did not know at the time, because when my grandparents refinished the floors in the 1940s they used dark varnish, which over the years had darken to nearly black through out the house. The floors had not been refinished since.

If you are not in excellent shape or if you have knee problems, then I would strongly suggest hiring a professional refinisher to do your floors. You will be doing a lot of bending, kneeling, and scraping.

Before you even start, you have to decide what type of finish you want to refinish the floors. The choices in sheen are: flat, medium gloss, and high gloss. All of these wear the same, however, if you have pets or children and high traffic areas, then I would suggest using either the medium gloss or the flat as these will not show scratches as easily as the high glass. Once you have decided on your sheen, you then have to decide whether to use a polyurethane paint or varnishes. Urethane finishes are slightly more durable and are available in clear and non-ambering, which means they wont yellow over time. Make sure that the product states ‘non-yellowing’ or non-ambering the can. In addition, urethanes are available in either oil or water based. Water-based finishes are easier to use, easier to clean up, and often times have less of an odor.

The following is a list of items you will need: Floor sander Edger sander Paint scrapers Medium grade sandpaper Finish Sheet plastic and tarp

Move out all furniture from the room you will be refinishing.

Hang the plastic sheeting over any door openings and cover all items you want to keep dust free.

Without any furniture in the room, sweep and then vacuum the entire floor.

Using the floor sander, sand the main floor area making sure that you keep the sander moving in same direction. Begin sanding with coarse sandpaper, then switch to finer sandpaper for a second sanding. The first sanding is to remove the majority of the original finish taking you down to bare wood and the second sanding if to provide a finished look.

Once the main floor area is finished, you then want to sand along the edges. By using a rather light touch, you want to rotate the sander in semi-circles to lessen the chance of making sand marks.

Now you will get down on your knees, take the scraper, and scrape the corners, under heater, and all areas where there is still some of the old finish left on the floor. You want to hand sand any area where you have marred the flooring.

Sweep and vacuum the floor. If you notice any sanding marks, hand-sand them until they are gone, making sure that you sand in the direction of the grain. Sweep and vacuum the floor again.

Apply the first coat of sealer, and then wait a minimal of 2 hours before hand sanding the entire floor. Once you have completed this, you will then sweep and vacuum the floor again, before apply the urethane or varnish finish. Allow at least the floor to dry overnight before applying the second coat of finish. It took my husband, and professional refinisher, and myself three weeks to completely refinish my parents floors. The hardwood that had been hidden all these years under ugly chocolate brown varnish was beautiful teakwood, which we later discovered came from salvaged wood when the home was originally being built.

Bamboo is a beautiful, durable hardwood flooring, even if bamboo is really grass, which beats many standard wood floors in hardness, as well as stability. Another benefit of bamboo is that when you install it, you can do so with the knowledge that it is an environmentally friendly product. It only takes approximately 4 to 5 years for the bamboo culms to mature, where as a red oak or maple can take decades to mature and once cut, the tree is dead, unlike bamboo which will grow back.

When purchasing bamboo or any other hardwood flooring you want to ensure that you buy from a reputable manufacturer who provides a warranty and is willing to back up their product and honor their warranty.

Your next step is to guarantee that your subfloor is dry, clean, and level prior to installation. If your subfloors are not clean, the adhesive will not bond well, and subfloors that are susceptible to moisture will eventually cause rot. Subfloors that are not level will cause the bamboo flooring to squeak when walked on. Having clean dry and level subfloors are the key to installing bamboo flooring as well as any other hardwood flooring material.

Depending on the manufacture, bamboo flooring may be glued down moisture barrier flooring adhesive is used. To apply the adhesive to the subfloor you will need to use with a trowel. The bamboo flooring planks will immediately need to be placed. Therefore, you may need help during installation. Bamboo flooring can also be nailed down over a plywood or particleboard subfloor by using a nail gun. When nailing down bamboo flooring, once you have secured the starter rows the following planks should be nailed above the tongue at a 45o angle to face. Nailing down bamboo is easier than gluing especially when using a nail gun.

The last step in installing your bamboo flooring, is once your have finished your project, sit back and enjoy all the complements youll receive on your beautiful, durable bamboo floors.

Installation Key Points:

Clean, dry, and leveled subfloor
For installation on a concrete slab, check the moisture content of the floor to guarantee its in a suitable range within the manufacturers specifications. Ensure that you leave proper expansion gaps as required by the manufacturers specifications. Dont be afraid to ask for expert assistance. Always read your manufacturers instructions for proper installation, before, and during installation.

The following is a list of possible required tools and supplies: Underlayment Adhesive Transitional Moldings Duct Tape Tape Measure Chalk Line Trowel Cleaning Kit Nail gun Nails